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Proposed Treks |
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feature story |
We
are going to Dhak-Bahiri!’Amol’s statement shocked me at
first. I had only heard about Dhak-Bahiri before from some of
my friends. Those who had been there said it is tough and “enjoyable”
trek. The trek was especially tough because of the vertical
rock patch towards the end. They said that the last part was
the worst, and we have to use ropes and tree-trunks and
creepers to get into the cave!As a group of enthusiastic
trekkers, Dhak-Bahiri had been in our “must-do” list since
the first time we heard about it. December being a good time
for this trek, we decided that we had to go for it.Once
decided, we started gathering information and photos from the
net and from friends who had already been there. Whatever we
gathered only confirmed that this was going to be one tough
trek. But the photographs did not seem to confirm what we
heard and read about it. We compared what we saw in these
pictures with our past trekking experiences, and wondered
whether people were giving exaggerated details about the trek.
I wish even today that we had been right!
So we, a group of five (Salil, Amit, Amol, Aniruddha and
Vikram) set out on Friday night. Our destination was a village
called Sandshi near Karjat. We took the Pune-Karjat passenger,
which left Pune at exactly (!!!) 10.50, its scheduled time.
The connecting ST from Karjat to Sandshi was at 6.00 a.m.
Since the train dropped us at Karjat Station at 2.30 a.m., we
made ourselves comfortable on the ST stand. We had a
refreshing sleep of nearly 3 hours.
We reached at Sandashi village within an hour, at around 7
a.m. From the village, we could see
Dhak-Bhairi on our left and Rajmachi fort on the right. The
village itself is located at the base of these two forts.
After having breakfast and Tea prepared by a localite, we
embarked on our hike to Dhak-Bhairi on 8 a.m. We all were
fresh and full of enthusiasm, but still very worried about the
rock patch. All of us had the same thought running through our
minds: “Will the rock patch be as difficult as described by
people or will it be as we imagined it to be?” As always, we
were hoping for the best and were prepared for the worst.The
route to Dhak-Bhairi took us through a very dense forest.
There was some possibility of a wild boar or the ever-elusive
leopard to cross our path and say hello to us, especially
since these two animals are known to roam forests around
sunrise and sunset. As a precaution, we had taken firecrackers
with us. We had also heard that there is a great probability
of losing the way in forest. And this probability came true,
twice while climbing up and once while coming down! But this
exercise of getting lost in the jungle, backtracking and
finding the right path again can be real fun if one knows how
to enjoy it.
We
had now been climbing for almost 4 hours continuously, with
just a couple of breaks. However, the thick green forest
provided a very shady path, so we were saved from direct
sunlight. Also, there was enough water along the path, so we
did not have to carry much of it in our sacks.
There is no direct approach road to the cave in the
Dhak-Bahiri, and the path towards this cave goes through the
adjacent mountain. At this point, one has to descend about 100
metres deep through a very narrow rift in the mountain. This
patch is locally called the “nali”. We had heard enough
about it before we had been there.After 4 hours, we reached
the top of the mountain adjacent to the Dhak-Bahiri. This
point is also the place where the “nali” begins. What we
saw there left us totally stupefied. A range of emotions swept
our minds, ranging from happiness to raw fear.The “Nali”
is a small rift between two hills. It is a very narrow
passage. At a time only one can walk through it. It is
inclined around 60-70 degrees, and is extremely slippery
because of the loose sand and gravel at the bottom. One is
almost guaranteed to slip if one doesn’t use one’s hands
to support himself using the walls.But the
most amazing thing about this “Nali” is that when one
stands at its beginning, one sees two hills on either side of
the Nali, and blue sky in between! Because of the steep
inclination of the Nali, its base is not visible when one
stands at it’s start. This is a very amazing and
breath-taking view, but the mere thought of walking (or
rather, crawling) through this patch is enough to make one’s
legs shiver.While we were looking at this view, we heard some
people coming from the bottom of the “nali”. The first 1
to emerge was a small kid, around 10-11 years old. His father
emerged soon after him, along with another couple of men, all
around 20-30 years of age. They were local villagers, who had
gone to visit the Dhak-Bahiri temple.We asked them the way up
to the cave. They said it was a bit tough and asked us to be
careful. One of us asked them “Can we do it?” The villager
simply said “ Have Trust on god bhairi and go ahead, He will
take you up to His cave”. The confidence with which he said
the above words had a very positive impact on us. It removed
the fear from our minds, and gave us the confidence we
desperately needed.So after a 30-minute rest there, with the
newly found courage in our hearts, we finally started to
descend. All of us were tensed, and every step was a cautious
one. One mistake, and the person would slip 200-300 metres
down, taking with him whoever came in his way. To add to this
tension, we spotted a few rats along the walls of this Nali.
Imagine what would happen if a rat crawled on your hand when
you are gripping the walls! Thankfully, nothing like that
happened to us.
The most terrifying point of this ”Nali” is at its end,
where it opens into a fully exposed valley. When you reach
this point, a valley, almost 200-300 metres deep stares you in
the face. A very small place, not more than 1 foot in breadth,
separates
you from the valley.It took us about 30 minutes to cross this
Nali. When you approach the end of this patch, you can see the
main Mountain of the Dhak-Bahiri, the one that has the cave in
it. This is a straight, towering mountain and the passer-by
seems to be dwarfed by its sheer size. It almost feels as if
Gulliver is looking at the poor Lilliputs. We reached the end,
and felt very relieved. But alas! That relief was to last only
a fraction of a second. The last person among us had just
crossed the Nali, when Amol called out “Where do we go from
here?”Such a question baffled us at first, but then we saw
the logic behind it. The point where we were standing was
right at the edge of the valley. Towards our left and straight
ahead, there was this valley, running to a depth of around 300
meters, almost vertically. Towards our right, there was the
mountain, rising almost straight upwards. And behind us was
the way we had come. So, WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE?Fear was
written all over our faces. We looked at each other, but the
expressions were the same on all faces. We thought maybe we
have lost track. But that was out of question since the Nali
has a single outlet, the place where we were standing. So we
had to be on the right track. But there was no track! After
the fear inside us settled a little, we started thinking a
little more clearly. It was then that we realized what we had
heard so far, “the rock patch is a difficult one, unlike any
other”. We realized the gravity of the statement. The way to
Dhak-Bahiri was along the vertical mountain toward our right.
We had to cross this mountain, this piece of rock rising
almost vertically upwards! Fortunately, we had to travel
horizontally across the breadth of the mountain, and not
vertically upwards. Had it been vertically up, we would have
almost certainly have started back home.So that was it, we
started ahead. The rock was full black, facing west, and the
time was around 1 P.M. The sun was right where we did not want
it to be, on our head. The rock had become hot by this time.
The path was very difficult. There were not enough places to
get a proper grip by foot or by hand. Generally, when there
are patches like these on any fort, there is some way using
which one can safely negotiate the part. Either steps are cut
into the rocks, or then a metal railing is drilled into it.
But here, this was not the case. We literally were crawling on
the rock, but never did we feel sure that the grip we took was
safe enough to hold us. The rock did not even have crevices
where we could get a comfortable grip. All of us were
suspended on whatever meager hold we managed, hanging on for
dear life. The sun was beating down on us, and the rock was so
hot it burned our palms. Relaxing the grip to reduce the
effect of heat was out of question; we would have slipped if
we tried to do it. After all, it is better to have scorched
hands than a lost life. All of us were drenched in sweat, and
were tremendously exhausted mentally and physically. The sweat
on our palms further made it difficult to grip the rock. The
sack on our backs, weighing not more than 5kg, felt as if it
had a truckload of stones in it. It took us about half an hour
to cross this part, definitely one of the worst in our
trekking history.
It still feels like a miracle thinking how we managed to cross
the rock.
When we were finished with this horizontal patch, we again
felt a feeling of relief. And like the earlier one, this too
was short-lived. Right ahead was the vertical rock patch, the
one that took us right into the cave of Dhak-Bahiri. We could
see the cave right on top of us, about 20-25 feet up. We could
also see a couple of ropes, and a couple of tree trunks that
lead to the cave. It was a very ingenious and highly effective
solution someone had devised to get into the cave, The trick
was simple, a very thick rope was suspended, the other end
tied very firmly to a rock inside the cave. And then there was
this tree trunk, with all its branches cut off. The branches
were cut in a very clever manner, and the end result was that
the trunk could effective be used like a ladder. It looked
somewhat like the illustration below:
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The rope was suspended along the length of this trunk. To
climb up, one had to grip the rope and pull himself up, with
the branches for footholds. Though it seems somewhat easy, it
was quite the reverse. The trunk was just rested on a small
crevice made in the rock. What if it slipped due to our
weight? Our hands were full of sweat. What if we lost grip of
the rope. What if the rope was not tied properly? These and a
million more questions came to our mind. But knowing well that
this was not the time to lose heart, we braved on. One by one,
we started climbing up, gripping the rope and using the trunk.
The rest of us had to wait at the bottom till the one climbing
was safely up into the cave. Amol climbed into the cave first,
followed by vikram and anirudhha. Amit and me were the last
ones to go. We could hear the cries of those who had reached
up. Amol, vikram and anirudhha were shouting excitedly, and
amit and myself were full of fear here at the bottom. Anyway,
amit started climbing. Amit is the fattest guy among us. While
climbing, he was standing on the log, with one hand on log and
one on the rope. This was not the ideal way to climb; he
should have been holding the rope with both his hands, using
the trunk only for foothold. I realized his mistake, but
thought it better not to advice him when he was climbing. But
this proved a very wrong, almost fatal decision. Amit was
using both his hands to pull himself up, with one hand on the
rope and the other on the log. While doing so, he happened to
pull the log too. The log shifted from the base. Amit lost his
foot grip, and he almost slipped down the trunk. Had he not
been holding the rope with his other hand, he would have
landed down, on me, and would have taken me along with him 300
meters down! Fortunately, he controlled the fall and gripped
the rope with both the hands. He waited there for a brief
moment, took a few deep breaths and then continued.
Surprisingly, Amit was not afraid to continue. When we talked
about this incident afterwards, he said that he was so full of
tension, that no other feeling had any place in his mind. He
had just one thing in mind; he had to scamper into the cave
somehow. And he did just that. I followed. As soon as all of
us were into the cave, we went to that corner of the cave
where Lord Bhairavnath’s idol was there. We thanked him for
getting us up there. Then we relaxed for some time, yapping
away excitedly about the things we had just experienced.The
cave was very beautiful. It had two sections, each one the
size of our recreation hall in Unit Number 3. One of them had
a big pool of water in it. The water was cold and clear. It is
amazing how our ancestors could find water in the middle of
nowhere with whatever technical know-how they had at that
time. The cave was full of names, addresses and love tales
written on the walls; the disgusting marks that indicated
people had visited it earlier. It makes me wonder what heart
people have to destroy the natural beauty of such a wonderful
cave.
From
the cave, we could see the Rajmachi Fort to our left, and in
its background, we could also see the “Duke’s Nose” in
Lonavla. By the time we settled in the cave, it was almost
evening. The “sunset festival” had just begun. Indeed it
was a festival, with the sunrays generating a wide spectrum of
colors. A few strings of white fluffy clouds, with silver
lining, added to the beauty of this view. For almost 45
minutes or more, we were mesmerized by the spectacle we
witnessed. Utterly speechless, we could do nothing but try to
capture the magnificent visuals in our ill-equipped cameras.
They say a picture is worth a thousand words, but even the
pictures we took cannot express the actual beauty of what we
saw with our eyes! The sunset spectacle got permanently etched
on the canvas of our hearts.We managed to pull ourselves out
of our “bed” by 7 next mornings. A few snaps, and we were
ready to descend.Easier said than done!
Descend?
How?
What about the patch that we had to negotiate using the rope?
There was no option for it, was there?
So one by one, we started to descend. The rope troubled us a
lot. Descending using the rope was like doing something close
to the “great Indian rope trick”.The toughest part was
this: At one moment, you are squatting, facing the valley, the
end of which you cannot see. You are at the edge of the cave,
where the rope starts. Behind you is the safety of the cave.
You have to hold this rope, and suspend yourself into the
valley. Not only that, once your feet are in the air, you have
to turn 180 degrees, so that you are now facing the rock, with
your back to the valley. Then, you use just your hands to
slide down the rope a couple of feet, and only then you come
across the tree-trunk that can be used for foothold. Any wrong
move, and god help you!
Anirudha was the first one among us to descend. He started
slowly and, after 2-3 steps down we could not see him, we
could just listen his voice. As he completed the rope he
shouted that he has finished rope, next one can start. One by
one everybody started.
I almost made that very wrong move. When I suspended myself
and turned around, I looked down. Seeing the valley below, a
wave of panic hit me. I almost lost grip on the rope and slid
down the rope almost 4-5 feet. Luckily I controlled the fall,
and took a better grip on the rope, bruising my arms and
thighs in the process. The rest of us finally descended the
rope, and thankfully it was accident-free.
We were terribly exhausted within 15 minutes that we took to
cover the rope. So we rested there for a few minutes. While we
resting, a couple of villagers came along. One of them was the
pujari, who came here very Sunday to perform puja of the
Bhairavnath idol.
And while we watched with our mouth agape, they climbed up the
rock path and the rope almost as if they were walking on F.C.
Road! They literally took not more than 10 minutes to cover
the part we took 45 minutes to cover!
The new road after that was easy, with no major hurdles to
overcome. So the return journey was a normal one.
By the 1 pm we were in the village, where we had lunch and we
got the ST to karjat. From karjat we got took the sinhagad
express to Pune.
Overall, this was one experience in life that exceeded
everything we anticipated. It was more dangerous than we
expected, it was more strenuous than we expected, but it was
also more rewarding that we expected. It increased our
confidence manifold. It made us understand what raw fear is,
how it feels to be in situations like the ones we faced. Even
today, remembering the hike through the rock-patch sends a
chill down our spine. It is almost like a video file that runs
through our minds.
The trek also emphasized the fact no matter how much better
man gets through technology; nature still holds the upper
hand. There have been, and there will be many more such
instances, when man will be helpless against nature. It
reminded me of a small comic strip that shows Bill Gates, with
a spade in his hand, trying to move a big mountain. The strip
quotes “Technology can move mountains!”Agreed it can, and
maybe it has, but then…..
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Dhak
Bahiri I
Dhak
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